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Apicius Recipes For The Modern Kitchen 2: Spiced Meat Patties (Isicia omentata)


As we journey deeper into the gastronomic world of ancient Rome through the recipes of Apicius, I find myself continually enchanted by the creativity and flavours of this bygone era. Each dish is like a whisper from history, offering a glimpse into the culinary traditions of a civilization that left an indelible mark on the world. Today, we venture into the heart of Roman cuisine to prepare Isicia omentata, a delectable dish that combines ground meat, aromatic spices, and the essence of ancient Roman dining. Join me as we recreate this timeless recipe that has transcended centuries. I have adapted this as simplly as possible for today’s kitchen.

Recipe: Isicia omentata (Spiced Meat Patties)

Ingredients:

  • 500g ground meat (I used pork)
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground lovage (or substitute with celery seeds)
  • 6 drops of garum/colatura or fish sauce (optional, for an authentic Roman touch)
  • Olive oil for frying
  • Fresh parsley, for garnish

Instructions:

  1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the ground meat, finely chopped onion, minced garlic, ground black pepper, ground cumin, ground coriander, and ground lovage (or celery seeds).
  2. If you’re looking for an authentic Roman twist, add a few drops of garum or fish sauce to the mixture. This ancient condiment was commonly used in Roman cuisine see my post on the subject here.
  3. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly until well combined. This aromatic blend will form the base of our spiced meat patties.
  4. Heat a generous drizzle of olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat.
  5. While the oil heats, shape the meat mixture into small patties or meatballs. You can make them as big or as small as you prefer.
  6. Once the oil is hot, carefully place the meat patties in the pan. Make sure not to overcrowd the pan; cook them in batches if necessary.
  7. Fry the patties until they develop a golden-brown crust on both sides, and the meat is cooked through. This should take about 3-4 minutes per side, depending on the size of your patties.
  8. Remove the cooked Isicia omentata from the pan and place them on a plate lined with paper towels to absorb any excess oil.
  9. Before serving, garnish with fresh parsley for a burst of colour and freshness.
  10. Season the spiced meat patties with a pinch of salt to taste. Remember that the garum or fish sauce (if used) can add saltiness, so adjust accordingly.

Enjoy your Isicia omentata, a dish that showcases the rich, aromatic flavours of ancient Rome. These spiced meat patties offer a delightful taste of history that’s sure to transport you to the heart of the Roman Empire.

Here is the original Latin recipe for Isicia omentata from Apicius’s De re coquinaria

Isicia omentata: Carnem porcinam minutatim concidi facito et cum pane molli et pipere et liquamine misceto. Isicia inde facito et singula omento involvito. Ova in patinam mittito et in patinam aliam oleum infunde et cum ferbuerit, isicia pone et frige bene. Tum ova in patinam cum isiciis tranfer et in furno pistrino coque. Cum coctum fuerit, servito.

Translation:

Isicia omentata: Mince pork meat and mix it with soft bread, pepper, and liquamen (fish sauce). Make isicia from it and wrap each one in omentum (caul fat). Place eggs in a dish and pour oil into another dish. When it is hot, place the isicia in and fry well. Then transfer the eggs to the dish with the isicia and cook in the oven. When it is cooked, serve.

Note> I found lovage sold as tea on Amazon.

Let me know what you think if you try out the recipe.

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