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Welcome to the salty, fishy world of Garum, the not-so-secret sauce that added a punch to ancient Roman cuisine. Her we dive deep into the fascinating history and peculiarities of Garum. From its pungent aroma to its esteemed status among the Romans, prepare to embark on a culinary adventure that will leave you both amused and curious!
The Birth of Garum: Legend has it that Garum was accidentally discovered by a forgetful fisherman who left his fermented fish out in the sun for far too long. Little did he know that his fishy mishap would give birth to a condiment that would conquer Roman taste buds for centuries to come. This happy accident led to the development of various Garum recipes, each with its own unique twist.
The Peculiar Process:
Creating Garum was no ordinary feat. Ancient Romans took great pride in the art of fermenting fish, making sure it reached the perfect level of putrid goodness. Typically, the process involved taking fish—often small, oily varieties like anchovies—and layering them with copious amounts of salt in large jars. The mixture was then left to ferment under the scorching sun, allowing the fish to break down into a savoury liquid. It was produced all over the Empire, from the Black Sea, Northern Africa and Spain. Each area claiming it’s superiority over it’s rivals.
Pungent Perfection:
One cannot discuss Garum without acknowledging its unique aroma. Described as a combination of rotten fish, salt, and a hint of umami, Garum packed a punch that both delighted and horrified the senses. It was said to be an acquired taste, an acquired smell, and an acquired courage to even approach a jar of the fermented concoction.
A Staple in Roman Cuisine:
Garum was not just a mere condiment; it was a culinary superstar in ancient Rome. Chefs and households alike incorporated Garum into a wide range of dishes, from stews and soups to salads and even desserts (yes, really!). It was the secret ingredient that brought depth and umami to every meal, making even the simplest fare come alive. The ancient famed chef Apicius wrote over 350 recipes in his De Re Coquinaria that included garum so this really proved it’s versatility. One gentleman drank garum mixed with wine for its health benefits, however, he could never keep a wife for very long for some reason…
Garum: The Social Status Symbol:
Much like fine wines or exotic spices of today, Garum became a symbol of social status among the Romans. The quality and origin of Garum were points of pride, with certain brands commanding hefty prices. Imagine showing off to your guests, proudly displaying your prized jar of the finest Garum, as if it were a trophy won in a culinary battle. Many traders of this condiment decorated their homes with mosaics of jars of garum and fish, to show where their wealth originated.
Legacy and Evolution:
As the Roman Empire expanded, Garum spread its fishy influence across the known world. Variations of the sauce emerged in different regions, each with its own twist and local ingredients. Garum became a cultural exchange, a testament to the Roman love for adventurous flavours.
The closest thing I have found to garum in today’s immense culinary world is Colatura di alici di Cetara. It is a sauce made from, you guessed it, fermented anchovies! Not nearly as bad as you would imagine, I tried it in a suggested recipe of spaghetti with colatura and it was pleasant with a hint of the sea. See my recipe below if you are willing to give it a try.
In the vast tapestry of ancient Roman cuisine, Garum stands as a quirky and indelible thread. Its pungency, acquired taste, and eccentricity mirror the flamboyance and eccentricity of Roman culture itself. So, the next time you savour a bold, umami-packed sauce, raise a metaphorical glass to Garum—the fishy elixir that brought joy and curiosity to the palates of ancient Rome. Bon appétit, and may your taste buds swim with delight!
